Oceanography
Oceanography is really the study of the waves which generates in the ocean. There are many causes for the generation of the waves. Sometimes it is due to the tides or sometimes it is due to wind which blows at the surface of the ocean. The ocean waves really blow through thousands of miles before it reaches the surface of the earth. Although there is large momentum and energy is present in a wave, there is a very little movement of the individual water particles from one place.
I really feel that you will have to study the wave phenomenon. The wave phenomenon really states one point and that is the particles of the water do not move, they just get displaced for a second and then again come back. This concept comes from the wave phenomenon.
The three main factors that cause waves in the oceans are as follows:
1. The first point is the speed of the wind. 2. The second factor is the distance of the water over which the wind has blown. 3. The third point is the time for which the wind has blown over the surface of the water.
All these three points are really important and I must say that you will find them to be really correct if you have a little knowledge of the wave propagation. There is nothing new as far as ocean waves are concerned. I really feel that their intensity is high if any of the above point is made more intense.
The next question arise that how many types of waves are their as far as the ocean waves are concerned. I must say that there are generally three kinds of ocean waves. They are as follows: ripples, seas and swells.
I would like to present them one by one. The description is as follows:
1. Ripples These are also known as the capillary waves and it appears on the smooth waters. This wave generally dies out as soon as the wind stops blowing. However they can really move forward if there is ample surface tension.
2. Seas These are larger waves that are formed under irregular and un-sustained winds. These waves can even last long after the wind has died out.
3. Swells They are formed when seas move away from their point of origin, separating naturally as per direction and wavelength.
These are some examples of the waves. However I must also you that the waves like Tsunami can really prove to fatal. You cannot really forget what it did in the south East Asia few years back. The speed of it is so large that I must tell you that it can really destroy cities around the sea.